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The Tab Collar Shirt, Made to Measure

The collar that defines classic masculine elegance

The Tab collar is one of the great classics of the male wardrobe. Recognisable by its long, slightly spread points, it frames the face with authority and accommodates a tie as naturally as an open collar. It is the collar for special occasions, polished city dress, and men who know what they want without needing to announce it.

At Swann, the Tab collar shirt is cut to measure from your exact dimensions. The collar height, point length and spread are adjusted to your build and your preferences, because a collar that does not sit well can undermine an entire outfit.

The Tab collar: anatomy of a classic

Long points, assured bearing

The Tab collar is defined by long points (between 55 and 70 mm depending on the version) and a moderate spread that accommodates a tie knot without crushing it. Its height, generally between 21 and 36 mm, gives it a confident presence around the neck while remaining comfortable to wear all day. Unlike the Italian collar or the cutaway, whose points open widely, the Tab collar holds a straighter, more restrained line.

It is the reference collar in both British and Italian tailoring tradition. It works equally well with a silk tie or a wool knit, under a three-piece suit or with a sport blazer over jeans. Its restraint is precisely what makes it universal.

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Tab collar detail bespoke shirt Swann Paris

The rounded Tab collar: a vintage variation

Rounded points, bar between the points

The rounded Tab collar follows the same structure as the classic tab collar, with the same height (36 mm) and point length (70 mm), but its tips are rounded rather than tapered. This detail gives it a subtle retro quality, elegant and understated, reminiscent of British dandies from the early twentieth century. It suits those who want to step away from the standard collar without straying from the codes of traditional elegance.

Its defining technical feature is the bar between the points, which keeps the collar in place and showcases the tie knot. That bar does, however, require simple knots only — four-in-hand or small half-Windsor. Large knots will not pass through. A constraint that becomes an elegance, once you know how to wear it.

View the rounded tab collar
Rounded Tab collar bespoke shirt Swann Paris

Made to measure: a collar fitted to your build

The Tab collar deserves a perfect neckline

A poorly cut Tab collar shows immediately. Too large, it floats around the neck and looks careless. Too tight, it constricts and makes for an uncomfortable day. In ready-to-wear, the neckline is standardised in half-centimetre increments, leaving little room for precision. Made to measure, the neck is measured with a tape, the right ease is added for your habits, and the collar is cut to sit just right.

At Swann, we also adjust collar height and point length to suit your neck and face. A long neck calls for a taller collar; a round face is better balanced by slightly longer points. These details make all the difference between a shirt you wear and a shirt you remember.

Tab collar bespoke cut Swann Paris

The Tab collar at Swann: our recommended fabrics

Poplin, twill, Oxford: the best companions for the Tab collar

The Tab collar benefits most from smooth, structured fabrics. Egyptian cotton poplin, fine and luminous, is its natural companion for formal dress: it falls with precision and resists creasing. Twill adds a little more body and depth, ideal for office shirts worn beneath a suit. For a more relaxed take, Royal Oxford or chambray give the Tab collar an easier feel without compromising its character.

Every shirt is cut to order, in the fabric of your choice, to your measurements. No stock, no compromise. You build your Tab collar shirt from start to finish through our configurator, or during an appointment in one of our boutiques.

Customise my Tab collar shirt
Fabric selection Tab collar bespoke shirt Swann Paris
Tab collar shirt style men Swann Paris

From the suit to the blazer, a collar that works everywhere

Restraint as a strength

The strength of the Tab collar is its ability to move across dress codes without ever striking a wrong note. With a navy or charcoal suit and a plain or club tie, it delivers a classic, reassuring elegance. With a tweed blazer and grey flannel trousers, it takes on a British bearing that few collars can claim. Worn open, without a tie, it stays clean and structured where other collars lose their shape. It is precisely this composure in all circumstances that makes it the collar of choice for men who dress with intention.

At the office, it works equally well with a white poplin shirt beneath a charcoal suit as with a blue twill worn with a navy blazer and chinos. Its restrained line does not compete with the rest of the outfit — it frames it. It is a collar that knows how to go unnoticed while still being noticed, which is the very definition of quiet elegance.

For more formal occasions — weddings, ceremonies, high-stakes business lunches — the Tab collar remains the uncontested reference. It carries a tie naturally, accommodates a bow tie on a white shirt, and gives any dressed-up outfit a depth that collars cut too wide or too short simply cannot offer.

Order your Tab collar shirt in store or online

Our advisors welcome you in our Paris and Bordeaux boutiques to take your measurements and guide you through the choice of fabric, buttons and personalisation options. You can also build your Tab collar shirt directly online, following our step-by-step measurement guide, and benefit from our first-order guarantee.

Swann Paris boutique Tab collar bespoke shirt

Customise my Tab collar shirt

Tab collar, classic collar, Parisian collar: what are the differences?

The Tab collar is often confused with other pointed classic collars. Its main distinction from the standard collar lies in the collar bar that links the points together, giving it a more singular character. It is closest to the classic collar, set apart by this specific detail designed to carry the tie and lend a polished rigour to the outfit.

The Tab collar is paradoxically structured enough for formal occasions and precise enough for a professional daily routine. It is often the first collar men gravitate towards when building a quality wardrobe, and the one they keep the longest.

At Swann, all our collars are available made to measure. If you are unsure which to choose, our advisors can guide you based on your build, your dress habits and your occasions.

How to choose and wear the Tab collar shirt?

Our style recommendations by occasion and body type

OCCASION Pair with Tie knot Suggested fabric
Formal meeting Navy or charcoal suit Half-Windsor or four-in-hand White or sky blue poplin
Wedding Suit or dinner jacket, silk pocket square Bow tie or slim tie White poplin, batiste
Smart office Suit or blazer with tailored trousers Four-in-hand, open collar Twill, blue Oxford, striped poplin
Business lunch Navy blazer, grey or beige chinos Open collar Chambray Oxford, plain twill
By body type
Long neck Choose a taller collar (38-40 mm) to balance proportions
Short neck Opt for a lower collar (33-35 mm) to visually lengthen
Round face Slightly longer points to refine and add structure
Long face A slightly wider spread to balance proportions

The made-to-measure Tab collar shirt: a lasting investment

A well-cut Tab collar shirt does not go out of fashion. The codes of the Tab collar have been established for over a century and have not shifted, because they rest on proportions that naturally flatter the face and the male silhouette. It is a purchase you make once, with care, and wear for years.

At Swann, every shirt is made to order, with no overproduction and no unsold stock. Your measurements are saved in your customer account and each subsequent order takes only a few minutes. Made to measure becomes a simple habit, not a complicated luxury.

Book an appointment at one of our boutiques in Paris or Bordeaux, or order online. Your made-to-measure Tab collar shirt will be delivered within 4 weeks, cut and assembled to your specifications.