Il est des chemises qu’on peut prendre à l’aveugle dans son placard avec un plaisir renouvelé, on ne se pose pas de question, on la connaît du premier coup d’oeil, on la porte presque toutes les semaines jusqu’à l'user à la corde.
The choice of your fabric will determine the workshop where your shirt will be made. For this reason we allow you to filter the fabrics by type of workshop.
Why different workshops?
Because in our French workshop we make beautiful traditional shirts while our Indian workshop allows us to make real casual shirts, sport, as we like to wear them at Swann and a more refined way on classic shirts.
Are all options available?
A few options are not available in our Indian workshop. If you change a fabric after configuring your shirt, it is possible that some options available in France are not available in India, you will be alerted under the summary of your shirt:
Click on the fuschia option to change it.
The Sartorial finish is available in all our workshops with slight variations. For example, in France the shirt will be mounted with 9 stitches per centimeter while our Indian shirt will have 10. The embroidery in France will be done by machine while it will be done by hand in India. The assembly of the shoulder and the collar is also done by hand in our Indian workshop. Small details of a manual work that for some can make a big difference.
This family workshop located in Vendée is one of the last French workshops to make custom shirts. Created a hundred years ago, they used to make work clothes until the 70's before specializing in shirts.
We have been working with them since our launch, hand in hand to shape an offering that has made SWANN's DNA with well-cut shirts and assertive style. A shirt in the tradition of tailoring, both beautiful and robust.
Why we work with this workshop
We are attached to this local and constant manufacturing: each shirt, as unique as it may be, must be cut and assembled with the same regularity and the same quality requirement. The workshop has been able to constantly evolve its know-how to adapt to both our organizational expectations and our constraints in terms of quality and evolution of our shirts. It has allowed us to become one of the main actors of the made-to-measure clothing in France.
The Sartorial finish is available in all our workshops. Our Sartorial shirts are made from scratch by a single person. Only our two best seamstresses in the workshop handle this very special production, which requires a great deal of skill and application. It takes us twice as long to assemble a shirt with these Sartorial finishes.
The available options
All the options you will find here are available in our French workshop.
A shirt in the purest tradition of tailoring, both beautiful and robust.
Probably one of the most beautiful shirts in the world
Everything is done by hand from the pattern to the cutting and assembly.This workshop, considered one of the best in the world, is still managed by a single family whose entire attention is focused on the quality of contract work.
With 160 years of experience in the textile industry, this family is sensitive to the transmission of its know-how from one generation to the next, the 6th today. They work with most of the major houses on Savile Row in London as well as many haute couture houses in France.
« To produce the highest quality handcrafted shirts to set a new standard in the global shirt industry. »
Why we work with this workshop
We are committed to offering you exceptional clothing with the extra soul that only the artisanal way can provide. This workshop is able to make custom-made shirts in denim or Japanese chambray: the shirts are mounted and then washed in different shades of indigo. The formal shirts are sublime, the collars are exceptional. Regularly audited on its work processes, this workshop is extremely rigorous on its operation and the quality of its products.
A few more details
• Seams with 10 stitches per cm
• 3mm bottom hem of shirt
• Assembly of the shoulder to the hand
• Design alignment at shoulders, collar and cuffs
• Reinforcement swallow at the bottom of the shirt
The Sartorial finish is available in all our workshops. In our Punjabi workshop, this finish is based on more than a century of know-how. This meticulous work allows us to offer our customers not only an exceptional shirt that is entirely hand made, but also the story of each tailor that is woven into the garment. It takes us twice as long to assemble a shirt with these Sartorial finishes.
The available options
The fabric determines the workshop. Most of the options we offer in our French workshop are also available here with a few exceptions. Some collars are not eligible at this time as well as some button colors for example. If one of the selected options is not compatible with the workshop, you will be informed under the summary of your shirt :
Click on the fuschia option to change it.
Good to Know
There may of course be slight variations from our French workshop. For example, the rounding of the bottom will be slightly different, the assembly of buttons too but it is exactly what we came to India for. A similar cut but a DNA specific to this culture of Indian clothing. No question of distorting the personality of this craft.
Try it and tell us what you think, after all they are just shirts!
Only the two best seamstresses of the Vendée workshop or one of the master tailors of our Punjabi workshop deal with this very special production which requires a great knowledge and a particular application.
It takes us almost twice as long to produce a shirt that features our Sartorial finish. What does it involve ?
Our standard shirt is put together with a single, continuous movement encapsulating both the side seams and the seam along the sleeves.
This is the reason why the two seams, which meet beneath the armpit, are aligned. The offset seams that form part of our Sartorial finish involve a much more complex, longer production process. They offer the substantial benefit of enabling us to shift the position of the armholes when putting the shirt together, so that the sleeve follows the curve of the arm much more harmoniously.
The result is a sleeve that twists very little, if at all, on the upper arm between the shoulder and the inside of the biceps.
The "handkerchief" hem
The handkerchief hem, as its name suggests, is a finer, more delicate hem that requires a particularly high level of skill and expertise to fold and stitch a tiny area of fabric, just 3mm inside the seam.
This type of hem is more comfortable inside trousers, making the seam inside the trousers feel less intrusive by reducing the thickness around the hips.
Number of stitches per centimetre
Our standard shirt features six stitches per centimretre, whereas our Sartorial shirts use eight. This work is more involved but allows the stitches and the resulting hems to be finer. This is one of the foremost characteristics of a fine shirt.
Unlike double seams, which use two needles to stitch two pieces of the shirt at once, the French seams that are used to join the shirt sleeves and panels are created in a two-stage process: one stitch on the reverse, folded by 5mm, and overstitched on the front by 4mm.
This technique results in a flat, clean and tough seam. This single-stitched seam is more refined, but also takes longer to produce.
Hem gussets, despite what you may hear, is not really designed to strengthen the hem at this location. It is primarily cosmetic, particularly if you wear your shirt outside your trousers.
The gusset is an attractive detail to add to the French seams on the front and back panels of the shirt.
The ways in which a collar is cut and fitted are key aspects of a shirt. When the base of the collar is cut out, it rises up at the front (where the buttonhole is located) allowing it to bear the weight of the tips of the collar, resulting in a better fit.
The ensuing curve in the collar flaps allows the shirt to follow the shape of the shoulder more closely, in a less constrained way, resulting in a better fit. The tips of the collar feature a somewhat rounded cut between the rear flap and the tips of the collar.
In any event, you can choose different lining thicknesses, and decide whether to use hot adhesive on the collar, to create a very stiff and formal effect, or a softer, more flowing, and sportier result.
Invisible collar button stitching
The stitching on your collar button is not visible from the front.
Indeed, the button is stitched on before the collar is fitted. The stitching is therefore hidden inside the base of the collar.
Once again, this is small detail, but it results in a more attractive open-necked collar, while the collar does not feel rough on the back.
This is the skill of aligning the different patterns in the fabric. When you create a shirt using striped or checked fabric, we can align the patterns so that the patterns line up to meet at the same points where the different parts of the shirt come together, especially at the shoulder joints and the back panel.
We prepare for this work as soon as the fabric is cut, in anticipation of the assembly to come. When the shirt is assembled, the cutting pattern must be followed exactly so that the patterns are not "swallowed" in the stitching, which could prevent them from aligning properly.
This alignment is precise down to the last millimetre, for no other purpose than ensuring aesthetic perfection.
The Sartorial finish also allows you to have a more "figure hugging" fit to the sleeve. There is a little more fabric at the back of the arm, meaning that the shirt sleeve follows the shape of your elbow more naturally.
The shirt and the cuff are under less tension when the arm is bent, particularly for tight-fitting sleeves.
The Sartorial finish allows you to have cut and fitted shaped sleeves.
There is a little more fabric at the back of the arm to give you a shirt sleeve that better fits the natural curve of your elbow.
The sleeve and the sleeve plackets are under less tension when the arm is bent particularly on slimmer fitting sleeves.
The cost of the Sartorial finish is 80€ regardless of the fabric and options chosen. Not all fabrics are eligible for this finish. This option can be chosen at the basket location independently for each shirt.