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When it comes to choosing an outfit for your wedding, the most important rule is to choose an outfit that suits you and in which you feel comfortable and confident. Some will choose a casual outfit, others a very classic outfit and still others will choose a traditional outfit. It is this last option that we are going to talk about by presenting the traditional wedding suit: the morning coat. As you will see, this choice implies a certain rigor, as this elegant garment is codified.
The morning coat, as it is known to our British friends, is a morning garment whose main characteristics are a defined waist, pointed lapels, very rounded front panels and basques (back panels) that end above the creases of the knees. Worn for special occasions; races, weddings and other social events, as its English name suggests, it is only worn during the day and is totally banned for evening ceremonies. Of course, it is not reserved for princes or royal families and we French can also boast of having worn it throughout our history.
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When it comes to making the Morning coat, the choice of fabric is very important. The groom has several options, but it is important to bear in mind that the fabric should be as formal as possible, therefore without texture and in a perfectly plain color. Black or anthracite gray are the two main alternatives. Some will choose bolder colors, royal blue, burgundy, etc., but at Swann Paris we strongly advise against this.
The most classic will be the woolen cloth in twill or plain weave, two weaves commonly used in the making of a men's suit. The first is recognizable by the diagonal lines in the weave, and the second by the tiny checks. Twill is more receptive to light, while canvas is more matte. Two options that you can choose in different weights: heavy for winter or lighter for summer.
This weave, whose name is protected (property of the excellent English company Hardy Minnis), is particularly suitable for weddings because it has several characteristics that are highly appreciated for summer weddings: wrinkle-free, breathable, and with a perfect drape. These characteristics are obtained by the way it is woven: the wool threads are twisted and wrapped around themselves a large number of times. The result is a dry, airy fabric with a crisp appearance.
For trousers, the options are more limited. The classics are striped trousers (there are several types of stripes, so it's up to you to choose), or plain trousers, but in our humble opinion, they don't have quite the same effect.
For the waistcoat, it is advisable to make it in a contrasting color, the great classics are light gray and beige, but like our English friends you can also bring a little fantasy by choosing a more marked color (sky blue, pale pink, or if you are Scottish why not a tartan?). You will easily find these color palettes either in the cotton section if you want to bring a little nonchalance, or in the gabardine section (a supple and very smooth fabric) if you are more classic.
When it comes to making the Morning coat, the choice of fabric is very important. The groom has several options, but it is important to bear in mind that the fabric should be as formal as possible, therefore without texture and in a perfectly plain color. Black or anthracite gray are the two main alternatives. Some will choose bolder colors, royal blue, burgundy, etc., but at Swann Paris we strongly advise against this.
The jacket has pointed lapels, single-breasted buttons, very rounded front panels (unlike the frock coat) and basques that stop at the bend of the knee.
For the waistcoat, our advice is to opt for a double-breasted waistcoat with a shawl collar, although a single-breasted waistcoat is also an option.
For trousers, you will have more of an attitude, particularly with regard to the choice of wearing them with a belt or with buckle & strap, the latter option being preferred here for both the comfort and the elegance it brings. The choice of pleats is at your discretion, i.e. single or double, inward or outward. Finally, for the trouser legs, choose single.
Finally, as regards the rest of the bet, here is a brief but effective guide
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The morning coat is the traditional choice for formal daytime occasions. It features a defined waist, peak lapels, a single-breasted fastening and fronts that curve away at the waist, with tails falling to the back of the knee. It is traditionally worn with striped trousers and a waistcoat.
Traditionally, the morning coat is daytime wear, though some choose to wear it into the evening. For a formal evening ceremony or reception, a dinner suit is generally the more appropriate choice.
A formal, plain cloth in black or charcoal grey is the traditional choice. Some grooms also opt for a dark navy morning coat, an elegant if less conventional alternative. Depending on the season, a wool twill or plain-weave cloth can work well, while Fresco is a good option for summer weddings thanks to its breathability and excellent resistance to creasing.
Striped trousers are the classic choice. The waistcoat introduces a contrasting colour, such as light grey or beige, or a stronger shade for a little individuality. We recommend either a single- or double-breasted waistcoat with a shawl collar.
Our made-to-measure morning coat starts at €650 for the coat alone, €1,050 with traditional striped trousers and €1,350 as a three-piece, with the waistcoat.
Ideally, allow two months before the wedding. Delivery takes four to five weeks, leaving time for a fitting and any necessary alterations.
Not necessarily, although a wedding in morning dress will often see the best man, the fathers and the brothers wearing morning coats too. A consistent approach to colour helps create a harmonious look. The groom can still distinguish himself with a contrasting waistcoat, such as an ecru cotton waistcoat with a shawl collar.